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Yesterday Remembrance Sunday events were held across Scotland to honor the sacrifices made by service men and women in past and current conflicts. Alex Salmond gave a reading at St Giles Cathedral before laying a wreath at Edinburgh’s stone of remembrance war memorial engraved with the words Their Name Liveth for Evermore. Alex Salmon added his own words to this fine sentiment “Remembrance Sunday allows people across generations to recognise and pay tribute to the duty and commitment of our service personnel and veterans, and express our gratitude for their selfless work." War Veterans joined serving members of the armed forces at events in towns and villages across Scotland and the nation fell silent in remembrance of those who gave their lives in defence of their country. Black Watch soldiers who had recently returned from Afghanistan held their own tributes to those who died during the tour of duty. The Rt Rev William Hewitt of the Church of Scotland stressed that "Remembrance Sunday is a day not only to remember people, some of them close to us, who lost their lives defending their country, but it is also a time of reflection and allows us to think how it is that wars are still happening around the world today."

While tartan for men in the shape of kilts tends to be restricted to special occasions such as weddings, graduations and as part of military dress. For women tartan has always been more of an everyday outfit whether in the form of a mini, hostess or Billie kilt, shawl, bodice, bag or hair clips. Tartan is also frequently used in girls school uniforms. Lightweight tartan shawls have been a staple of the Highland woman’s wardrobe from the mid-nineteenth century, as well as keeping warm their function was also decorative to emphasise the cut of dresses at the time. From the Catwalk to the High Street tartan has played an on-going and evolving role lending itself to a myriad of trends from glamour, Goth and punk and as a staple of traditional classic tailoring. Tartans fashion credentials began in the early twentieth century. In the 1920’s Chanel introduced a shorter kilt suitable to the style of the roaring twenties. Vivienne Westwood can be credited with doing more for tartan than any other designer. Westwood has used tartan to evoke Highland fantasies, punk and structured tailoring. Striking pieces included fitting bodices, mini-skirts, wraps and tailored jackets. With a love of the Royal Stewart and Royal Stewart Hunting Westwood also designed her own tartans which she worked on with Locharran, one of Scotland’s top weavers. Most recently her work has been referenced by Japanese designers who share her passion for the plaid.

As part of this year's Children in Need Pudsey has been given a makeover by top designers including Henry Holland, Giles Deacon and Jonathon Saunders. This adorable tartan fellow is the creation of Edinburgh-born menswear designer Patrick Grant and is part of the collection on display at Liberty in London.    

Sett – refers to the number of yarns of each colour used, the sett is the identifying sequence of each individual tartan pattern. The simplest setts are for the Macgregor tartan- also known as the Rob Roy which features equal bands of red and black. This is in stark contrast to the Ogillvie of Airlie tartan which has 182 colour changes. Early tartan production Items such as blankets, shawls and wraps were hand -made, woven by women in their homes. Those who had the means would occasionally make use of travelling weavers who would take on specific commissions. In such instances those commissioning the order would provide their own wool which they had dyed themselves. The old handlooms used by weavers produced cloth of around three feet, to achieve the desired length sections were then sewn together to produce larger section of cloth. Up until the eighteenth century wool from a now extinct variety of sheep was used, these sheep shed their wool which could then be gathered and spun. During the reign of Queen Victoria the monarch instituted the importation of softer Saxony wool as she felt traditional wool would make tartan which was too rough for use of Highland regiments – she was of course interested in stronger trading relationships with Germany. Today much of the wool used in the production of tartan comes from varieties of sheep originally from New Zealand and Australia The waulking of the cloth is a process that has received much attention as it captures a different style of life and community. Once the cloth had been woven it was soaked in an alkaline solution and beaten by the local women using their hands and feet. Around ten women would participate and during the proves to keep the momentum going the women sung special waulking songs, these had different tempos slow and fast depending on the stage of the process. The The Act of proscription – The Disarming Act of 1746 is the most significant event to take place in the history of tartan. Under the act the wearing of tartan was banned. Following the lifting of the ban in 1782 and the reintroduction of tartan was transformed. It changes from being a poor man’s cloth worn in the Highlands to a sought after ad fashionable material which became popular throughout Scotland. At the dame time its manufacture changes from hand made to manufactured in the newly established factories – which helped to keep up with demand. Early tartan colours were created using locally available materials such as vegetable skins, plants and minerals – popular were bracken, heather, onion skins and myrtle. Iron and copper were then used to fix the dye. From the end of the seventeenth century, particularly wealthier members of society natural dyes were supplemented by the use of imported dyes from India and the Americas. These were used particularly when creating blues and reds which were particularly hard to achieve using natural materials.

Tartan is key to Japanese design Tartan has links historic and current around the world. The presence of Highland regiments who assisted British colonisation resulted in tartan featuring far and wide; including areas as far flung as the Caribbean, India and South America. Similarities between tartans and madras cloths from Southern India show the influence tartans had on local textile production. The presence of Highland regiments in France strengthened French interest in Tartan. Many Japanese designers also have a fondness for tartan which has long -standing popularity in the country- as far back as 1871 the Emperor of Japan introduced tartan skirts as part of girl’s school uniform. Similarities between Japanese clothing and highland dress are noticeable the fhelidh -mor and the arisaid is rely on wrapping, tying, pleating and draping rather than on traditional western tailoring techniques. Tartan has a complex and rich history both in Scotland and around the world. Its dominance owes much to the versatility of the fabric. When used in clothing it can be historically specific or vague, nationally defined or global, hand - crafted or mass produced, conservative or revolutionary, bright or muted, and can be worn by the wealthy and the poo, by civilians and the military. You would be hard pressed to find a fabric with so many different connotations.

District tartans can be worn by anyone from or living in a particular area. In a description from 1703 ‘Description of the Western Isles of Scotland’ the concept of the district tartan goes towards establishing the ancient origin of the district tartans. ‘Every Isle differs from each other in their fancy of making plaids as to the stripes and breadth of colours, able to the first view of a man’s plaid to guess the place of residence’ this demonstrates the strength of local affiliation and tartan at the time. As with many tartans which have evolved over time with new being made to today, some of the district tartans are from the 18th century, while other are more recent additions. The following district tartans are accepted district sets – Lennox, Paisley, Stirling, Dundee, Galloway, Aberdeen, Crieff, Huntley, Bannockburn, Strathearn, Tweedside, Nithsdale, and Lochaber. Additionally each of Canada’s provinces apart from Quebec has its own district tartan. The historical evidence for tartans linked to a particular area of Scotland is in fact much stronger that the historical evidence for links between tartans and different families or clans. Lennox tartan from an area near Glasgow is one of the earliest tartans to be recorded, and dates from the mid – sixteenth century. However looking at tartan origins and whether district or clan tartans came first the scenario need not be either or as often family groups wore similar patterns as what would have been available to them in the local area was limited to what local weavers were able to offer.

As St Andrews day approaches what better way is there to mark this great Celtic day but with some traditional Scottish fare. Cranachan is a delicious example of oats, a staple of the Scottish cuisine, being used to make a sweet Scottish treat – at its most simple Cranachan is a mixture of oats, cream and sugar to which whisky and cream can be added. And lets face it Whisky and cream tend to improve most things! Robert Burns once referred to Scotland as the land of the cakes – he was in fact refereeing to the number of different oatcakes rather than the cake cakes. Traditionally it is Glasgow rather than Edinburgh that is particularly noted for its love of tea and cake. And it wasn’t just the cakes themselves that looked appealing but the decoration of each establishment. The Willow Tea Rooms on Sauchiehall Street is of the most famous examples. These beloved tea rooms were designed by Charles Renee Mackintosh one of Scotland celebrated designers with a world wide reputation. Some of Scotland most famous cakes and biscuits are linked to particular areas of Scotland. The Selkirk Bannock, a sweet bread with sultanas and raisins and Dundee cake with fruit and almonds are two popular examples which although local in origin are available in other areas of Scotland too. Some that tend to be limited to their area of origin include the Orkney speciality the ‘Carvie’ biscuit ideal for cheese which is only available in Orkney. For sweets Edinburgh Rock, Harwick Balls, Moffat toffee and all butter tablet remain top sweetie choices that have endured over time. In the 1500’s in Scotland sweets were seen as a part of celebrations. In 1587 at the coming of age of King James VI the Town Council distributed sweets to the local children. Harwick balls, dark brown peppermints are said to inspire rugby players and a tin of Harwick Balls is also buried at the South Pole! Edinburgh rock is distinctive in that it is soft and comes in soft pastel colours – a great favourite with locals and visitors alike. Tablet is a traditional Scottish treat which is easy to make at home – it is made from milk or thin cream and sugar combined with orange juice of whisky – perfect for marking a celebration of as a treat on a dreich day!

Problem for Scots using latest gizmo- Apple’s newest offering the iPhone 4 uses a voice recognition system which has found it hard interpreting the native Scottish tongue. Bemused Scots have posted a number of video examples on YouTube, in one ‘Can you dance with me’ was picked up as ‘Can you dutch woman’.

Andy Murray might be interested to know that there are a number of Chinese tartans, should he want a change from the ‘Murray’ or ‘Wimbledon’ tartan. Murray recently signed up to the Chinese version of Twitter. This followed confusion over his victory speech when he struggled with his pronunciation. Murray bet David Ferrer and in doing so became the world’s number three – his highest ranking to date. Go Andy! We’ve getting excited about the New Zealand V France Rugby World Cup final this Sunday at Eden Park. Will France be able to match the intensity of the mighty All Blacks – particularly as the New Zealand are playing at home and the support from their fans will be immense! For both sides a rugby shirt will be de rigour, and if the should wish to add some tartan into the mix that would be all to the good! France has a strong and long –standing relationship with Scotland. French players and supporters could opt for the Jacobite tartan. The French supported the Stuart cause for decades. French regulars fought to the last at Culloden Moor after the clans had broken and the 'Culloden' tartan would honour those brave soldiers. These are also 12 Bretton tartans to choose from. The New Zealand tartan is made up of black grey and white. The black represents the highest achievement of New Zealanders in sport, grey, the multi cultural society and white, the snow-capped Southern Alps. At home and away, whether your bag is tennis, rugby or football grab a piece of the action, support Scotland's proud sporting tradition with a casual kilt and t-shirt. Whether your taking part or a spectator a kilt is an essential part of any Highland Games – with some impressive sporrans, stunning tartan dresses and spectacular sporrans on display. Scottish football wouldn’t be the same without the Tartan Army in all their glory adding a colourful presence both at home and abroad. Edinburg Marathon runners too are fans of wearing kilts whether a casual kilt or one of the new lighter utility kilts. At the Australian kilt run a free kilt and Tam O’ Shanter for their efforts. Casual kilts look fantastic at sporting occasions, worn with a Jacobite shirt, rugby or football top, day sporran and trainers or walking boots which transforms the kilt ainto a rugged outdoor look and a display of Scottish sporting pride.    

A sporran is an essential part of Highland dress when wearing a kilt, both to keep the tradition of the outfit as well as for practical reasons, where else to keep your flask of whisky and mobile phone… As early as the twelfth century Highlanders were described as being "bare-legged, with shaggy cloaks and ‘a scrip’ or small bag. During this time only highlanders wore the traditional Feileadh Mor or great kilt and such dress was looked down upon by the lowlanders. The kilt at that time consisted of a large piece of tartan cloth, untailored that was worn over the shoulder fastened in place with a broach at the shoulder and belted around the waist. The material, being hardwearing and waterproof was ideally situated to the conditions and provided more comfort that trousers, but with one disadvantage – not pockets! Hence the creation of the sporran. Sporrans at that time were different from those we see today. Made simply from leather or other animal skin they were gathered at the top using a basic draw string. Highlanders in the Western Isles also wore cloth pouches which were known as trews. The evolution of the sporran from its humble beginnings to the ornate offering of today can be traced back through history in paintings of the time and items from as far back as the fourteenth century which are preserved in various Scottish museums. One of the most interesting sporrans is that which contained a hidden pistol, primed to go off in someone other that its owner dared to open it! The poet and novelist Sir Walter Scott was so inspired by an 18th century, pistol-firing sporran he incorporated it into his story Rob Roy in which Roy himself declared, "I advise no man to attempt opening this sporran till he has my secret." Sounds advice given its contents! Sporrans became more elaborate in their design from the seventeenth century onwards, when a cantle made of metal or even silver if you happened to be an important figure such as a clan chief was incorporated into the design. Cantles featured beautifully designed emblems such as Celtic symbols. These sporrans were often designed with a flap top and three tassels and used a range of furs including fox, horse and sealskin – all of which can be seen in the sporrans currently on offer. The traditional military sporran was introduced in the eighteenth century and were splendid to see as part of a military regiments – they were made from long goat-hairs and known as, sporran molach. The sporran should hang down from a sporran chain so that it sits under heath the belt buckle. As the two are seen close together it is common to match their designs as well as that featured on the sgain dhub. When it is inconvenient to have the sporran hanging down in front, for example when dancing or driving it is perfectly acceptable to have it hand from the side of the waist. For the best look as well as comfort a sporran should be worn a few inches below the belt. If you are taking part in highland dancing wearing the sporran slightly lower may help to keep the kilt from flying up and preserve your modesty. There are three main categories of sporran to choose from and tradition and common usage are fairly prescriptive as to which suits which occasion. The Day sporran as you will probably have guessed is most suited to day time and more casual events such as foot matches. Made form brown or black leather, a simple motif may be carved into the leather and generally it has three tassels, overall the look is a simple adornment. Black Dress sporrans can be slightly larger that day sporrans and are usually highly decorative, with a fur face and sterling silver cantle which is itself highly patterned, usually with a Celtic motif such as a thistle, clan or Masonic emblem. Celtic knots are also popular. If you are looking for a show-stopper of a sporran, an animal mask sporran would certainly fir the bill – made from an animal belt the head forms the sporran flap – badger and fox varieties are particularly popular. Piper sporrans are made of horsehair, the long hair swishes as the pipers march and adds to the visual element of any regimental display. In general long –haired sporrans are only used by pipe bands. In between the Day Sporran and the Dress Sporran is the Semi Dress Sporran, this sporran lies somewhere between the dress and the day sporran – having leather flap and short-haired body. A semi-dress sporran is the most versatile of the sporran types and can be worn for many day and more formal events.